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Callaly

Area Description


A small area of buttresses which is notable for one of the finest pieces of hard climbing in Northumberland, The Young, which follows the centre of the immaculate tombstone buttress and in another guide would be considered E8. The sandstone quality of this buttress is hard to match anywhere in the county and sadly it is not extensive here.

Rock: Sandstone
Aspect: North
Altitude: 275m
Walk-In: 25 minutes
Problem quality:
Route quality:
Access: No reported problems


Location and Approach



From the A697 Morpeth to Wooler road: Turn off the A697 towards Whittingham and follow an unclassified road to the village. Turn left following signs for Callaly. After 1 and a half miles, park at some large beech trees at a clearing on the left. Follow the steep track up the hill bearing right after 10 minutes towards the summit of Castle Hill. Once at the summit, drop down to the left to a fence after 5 more minutes, cross this and walk uphill to the buttresses
Public Transport:Very difficult.

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New Problems


New problems since the latest guidebook (2000):

  • Where do we go from here? (6c (E2 6a))
    50 metres left of McArtneys Cave is a bttress with a flake up its centre. Start on the arete and pull round onto the left face.
    Andy Cowley 2006

  • Iron Head (6c (E2 6a))
    The face and arete to the right of Where do we go from here?
    Andy Cowley 2006

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Full Problem List


8a+The Young
7aSlopey Traverse
 Slopey Mantle
6cIron Head
 Where Do We Go From Here?

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